Adrian Hayes, a British explorer, author, and leadership coach, has recently completed a demanding expedition to Kanchenjunga, the third-highest mountain on Earth, standing at 8,586 meters tall.
Hayes, recognized for his adventurous spirit in challenging environments, previously reached the summits of K2 and both the North and South Poles, as well as traversing Greenland and the Empty Quarter. This year, he encountered one of his most significant challenges on the Himalayan peak.
After reaching the summit, he faced dire circumstances — running out of oxygen, breaking his hand, suffering from frostbite, and ultimately being left behind in what climbers refer to as the “death zone.”
In a recent episode of the Situation Today podcast, Hayes discusses his experiences, the mental and physical perseverance required, and how insights from such extreme conditions can be applied to leadership in the business world.
Watch the full interview here:
An edited version of the interview follows.
What motivated you to climb Kanchenjunga?
Kanchenjunga is the world’s third tallest mountain and is nearly as steep as K2, but extends for a longer distance. It presents the longest ascent from high camp to summit compared to any other mountain. While it’s less prone to avalanches than others, the main threats are exhaustion and exposure to the elements.
Located on the border of Nepal and Sikkim, near Tibet, I served in the Gurkha Regiment years ago and had the opportunity to recruit in that area. I first spotted the mountain 30 years ago and always thought, “One day I’ll climb that.”
My adventurous journey began at 17, driven by the desire for new experiences and personal growth. I paused for seven years to raise my daughter — my greatest challenge — but returned to my passions. We attempted Kanchenjunga last year but were unable to summit, making this year’s climb a second chance.
How have you noticed mountaineering changing over the years? Is it becoming too commercialized or focused on attention?
Absolutely. Many expeditions are now led by Sherpas, and social media has transformed climbing into a performative endeavor. Individuals feel pressured to showcase their accomplishments: running a marathon is no longer sufficient; ultra-marathons on mountainous terrains are now the norm.
Climbing Mount Everest has turned into a spectacle, with records being set for various achievements, such as the youngest climber or fastest ascent. This shift has intensified since Nirmal Purja’s quest of climbing all 14 eight-thousanders, which was adapted into a Netflix documentary, steering the focus towards record-breaking rather than meaningful experiences.
We must return to the fundamental reasons for undertaking these challenges: the enjoyment of solitude, the journey, and clarity. It’s not only about the Himalayas; the mountains in the UAE are equally stunning, and I venture there each winter weekend.
Describe the summit attempt. Were you part of a team or climbing solo?
There were eight climbers, supported by eight Sherpas for the final ascent. My earlier acclimatization rotations were primarily solo or with just one other person. As the summit attempt approached, only five climbers remained, and the conditions were not ideal; everything felt hurried.
We departed from the lower high camp at 6:30 PM on May 10 and reached the summit at 2:30 PM the following day, taking around 20 hours to complete the ascent. I ran out of oxygen en route since my Sherpa was behind me for a period, leading to me taking charge of the climb. I managed to regain oxygen and summited strongly, but was in desperate need of water.
How long can one realistically survive without adequate oxygen?
Not long at all. If you’re accustomed to climbing with supplemental oxygen and it suddenly depletes, it’s comparable to having the power shut off on an electric vehicle — you come to a halt.
My Sherpa was somewhat inexperienced, and although I do not wish to be critical, he was quite young. Fortunately, I secured more oxygen and reached the summit despite the treacherous weather. We captured a brief photo and video before starting our descent.
Was that when your hand was injured?
Indeed. During the descent, another climber stumbled and collided with me, causing me to fall off a ledge, though I was caught by a fixed rope. Unfortunately, the force of the fall injured my hand, which became unusable.
Descending with one hand was incredibly challenging; it took us three to four hours to descend a mere 200 meters. While the rest of the group made it back to Camp 4, tragically, a French woman lost her life on the way down, during her first attempt at an 8,000-meter peak.
Subsequently, I ran out of oxygen once more and began to suffer from high-altitude cerebral edema (HACE). I experienced disorientation and irrational thoughts, even instructing my Sherpa to abandon me. I began hallucinating and succumbed at an altitude of 8,300 meters.
Can you describe the descent?
The descent took over a day to go from 8,300 meters to about 7,700 meters. I took a wrong turn and slid 30 meters, experiencing more hallucinations. I communicated with illusions of people and places that didn’t exist, but continued to push forward.
Eventually, I struggled yet again. Suddenly, a Sherpa appeared with oxygen, secured me with a harness, applied a mask, and guided me back down to Camp 4. The following day, I was airlifted to safety.
I owe my survival to reaching a lower altitude and the Sherpa’s timely assistance.
Did you also experience frostbite?
Yes, I suffered frostbite on several fingers and my right foot. Recovery is underway; however, one finger remains severely impacted, and my foot is painful. Despite that, the consequences are minor. I’ve learned that very few individuals have survived a descent from the death zone in such a solo manner.
What motivated you to persist through this ordeal?
Three primary factors drove me: an innate instinct to survive and descend, my physical fitness, and a strong belief in my abilities. Having previously descended Everest without supplemental oxygen prepared me mentally. I focused solely on the challenge at hand, blocking out fears, panic, and even thoughts of my family.
While some have questioned whether I might develop PTSD from this experience, I feel no trauma. I am genuinely grateful to be alive.
How do you integrate these lessons into your professional life?
With 20 years of coaching experience, my focus extends beyond motivation; I delve into themes such as leadership, growth mindset, adaptability, risk, and resilience.
Resilience is particularly crucial; many executives mention a lack of this trait in their teams, especially among younger employees. We live in a risk-averse culture, overly sanitized and protected, which detrimentally affects our ability to deal with challenges.
We’re failing to teach individuals how to think critically; instead, we simply instruct them what to think. The rise of smartphones and now AI has caused us to forfeit fundamental problem-solving skills — people can hardly navigate without GPS nowadays.
However, life is not devoid of difficulties. The more you challenge yourself, the better equipped you become for whatever may arise.
What guidance would you offer to business leaders seeking to foster resilience within their teams?
Begin by cultivating a strong organizational culture. Encourage open and honest feedback; it’s a valuable asset. Ensure your team understands shared values and intended culture.
Create an environment where risk-taking is welcomed, and mistakes are acknowledged as essential for growth. Foster critical thinking and problem-solving skills while promoting tough conversations.
We need individuals who can think independently, question existing norms, and communicate transparently, as these traits are fundamental in building resilience.
What lies ahead for you? Will you continue pursuing climbs?
This was my last climb of an 8,000-meter peak; I don’t see the merit in chasing all 14 summits as many have already accomplished that.
However, I do plan to revisit the 7,000-meter ranges in Tibet, India, or Nepal in the future, potentially next year. It no longer centers around records; it’s about finding tranquility away from the chaos and embracing nature. Yet, one need not travel to the Himalayas; the mountains in Hatta, Ras Al Khaimah, and Oman are breathtaking too.