Led by Chef Francesco Torcasio, whose passionate cooking has won over the city’s most sophisticated food lovers, the restaurant recently received a Golden Lion at the Venice Festival. This accolade acknowledges its commitment to preserving and sharing Italian culinary culture.
In an in-depth conversation with Chef Francesco, we explore his culinary journey, the allure of Assassina Pasta, and the essence of luxury Italian cuisine — even from thousands of miles away.
Could you share your journey into the culinary arts — when did you realize you wanted to become a chef?
I grew up in a quaint village in Calabria, southern Italy, where food was central to every family event. My earliest memories are imbued with the fragrance of slow-simmering sauces in my mother’s kitchen and the joyous laughter that filled our home as we prepared meals together. I did not consciously choose the culinary path; it chose me. Cooking was a way of life infused with love passed down through generations.
How has your Italian heritage and family background influenced your culinary style today?
Everything I craft is fundamentally connected to my roots. My cooking transcends mere flavor; it is steeped in memories, emotions, and traditions. Each dish I prepare is a pursuit of a feeling, not just a taste. The essence of my grandmother’s Sunday ragù, the aroma of wild fennel across the landscape, the fresh seafood from the Calabrian coast — these memories resonate within every dish I serve.
Chic Nonna in Dubai is famous for its bold, nostalgic flavors. Can you share the story behind one of your hallmark dishes — the Assassina Pasta?
The Assassina is a dish that embodies rebellion, with a tale as spirited as its flavor. Originating from Bari in Puglia, this pasta is “killed”—quite literally—fried in the pan until it achieves a delightful char and caramelization. It’s a rustic dish that unapologetically showcases character.
The first time I tasted it was during a family vacation in Puglia as a child, and the burnt, spicy profile surprised my palate — I adored it. At Chic Nonna, I reinterpret the Assassina, balancing tradition with refinement. It’s a homage to the audacity of southern Italy and to the concept that even flaws — like a charred edge, a hint of spice, complemented by the creamiest Burrata — can create something beautiful.
Another popular item on your menu is the Fregola al Gambero Rosso. What inspired this dish?
This dish holds a special place in my heart. Fregola, a small, toasted pasta from Sardinia, absorbs flavors beautifully. I pair it with Gambero Rosso, a red prawn renowned for its rich sweetness and complexity. At first glance, it might appear simple, but it’s layered with technique and emotion. The dish captures delicate yet robust flavors — the sweetness of Mazara prawns, the rich depth of the bisque, and the citrusy brightness from Sicilian lemon zest.
This idea was sparked by a childhood summer spent in Sardinia with my family, particularly our visits to the Maddalena Islands, which are close to my heart. I was always mesmerized by Fregola al Gambero Rosso, noting how its brilliance remained lesser-known outside of the island. Sharing its essence with a broader audience while honoring its authenticity became my mission.
At Chic Nonna, we prepare the Fregola almost risotto-style, enriched with a bisque made from the prawns and finished with lemon zest. The allure of this dish lies in its balance of textures and flavors. The unique shape and toasty notes of the fregola create an exceptional base, while the prawn bisque intensifies every bite, making it a ray of sunshine on a plate.
The owner of Chic Nonna recently won the Golden Lion at the Venice Festival. How did it feel to achieve this recognition as a team?
This was a moment filled with deep emotions. The Golden Lion is an iconic emblem of Italian culture — receiving it for our efforts in showcasing our culinary heritage overseas was profoundly humbling.
This honors not just our team; it celebrates every Italian nonna, each Sunday lunch, and every traditional recipe passed down generations. For us, it serves as a reminder of the importance of authenticity. Staying true to our roots, even when we’re far from home, can strike a chord with people across the globe.
What does Italian fine dining signify for you today — particularly in a city like Dubai?
To me, fine dining extends beyond opulent ingredients or gold flakes. It revolves around respecting tradition, executing meals with care, and evoking emotions through food. Dubai is a city that celebrates ambition, and at Chic Nonna, we infuse that same spirit into our culinary offerings — with sincerity. My aspiration is always to deliver dishes that transport diners, whether to the hills of Tuscany, the coasts of Calabria, or the streets of Bari.
What lies ahead for you — are there new dishes or concepts you’re excited to introduce at Chic Nonna?
I continuously draw inspiration from my travels, exchanges, and even rediscovered old family recipes in forgotten notebooks. Currently, I’m developing a new dish that explores the flavors of sea urchins in a uniquely unexpected context.
I believe that the essence of Italian cuisine is timeless, yet the narrative can always transform. After receiving the Golden Lion, our motivation to express the true meaning of Italian cuisine — heart, history, and heritage — is stronger than ever.